Ramadan

On Thursday night, I went over to my friend Dhia's house to eat dinner for the first night of Ramadan. As the sun set, Dhia and his family went off to do their prayers, leaving me sitting in front of a banquet of brik, tajine, chicken, soup, salads, and cheese. Within five minutes, they were back, quickly but politely pouring themselves glasses of water and serving themselves soup - a tasty vegetable potage. After the soup, we commenced on what I thought was the main part of the meal - all of the food arrayed before us. I had my fill of his mother's excellent meat tajines and tried to keep my egg yolk in my rapidly-disintegrating brik.

Much to my surprise, the first part of the meal was followed by a large tray of couscous and a plate of chicken, potatoes, carrots,and broth. Dhia's father filled up my plate with a generous portion, and I, realizing it would be bad form to stop, tried to see if I could find some more room in my stomach. After that plate was done, it was insisted upon that I have just a little more chicken, which I grudgingly oblidged to. After the main course, we relaxed and had some fruit, which I had to politely decline.

This is my first time being a part of Ramadan in a Muslim country. When I was in Morocco, or even Sierra Leone, I wasn't there during Ramadan. I've read accounts and talked to friends who have experienced it, but it's a unique thing to live firsthand. First off, I am going to be up-front, I am not fasting. However, I'm making sure not to be overt about that fact - I don't eat or drink in front of Tunisians (which has actually led me to joke that I am "half-fasting" because I spend a lot of my day around Tunisians at Amideast - I routinely go through 4 hour stretches without drinking or eating, which I know isn't a lot, but I'm a big water guy, and it's been an adjustment).

Fasting for Ramadan means that one does not eat or drink from sunrise to sunset. It also includes other stipulations, such as being extra-careful about being a good Muslim, and abstaining for negative activities, as well as from sexual intercourse during the day.

The first day here in Tunisia was an experience. I woke up, grabbed a quick breakfast (lamenting the fact that my breakfast sandwich guy won't be available for the next month - we're talking a half-baguette absolutely slathered with butter and jam), and walked out into the cloudy morning. Everyone who I passed by, and the other passengers on the tram were acting more or less like zombies - I felt like I was in one of the opening scenes from Shaun of the Dead. Everyone was half-awake, and dealing with the new routine. According to most people I talk to, the first few days are difficult, and then it becomes more or less OK.

Passing through Tunis during Ramadan can be disconcerting and isolating as a foreigner. Almost no cafes or restaurants are open, and everything feels deserted (especially when people are breaking the fast at around 7:30 PM). The few restaurants that are open have newspaper over their windows, and most people go in just to smoke - which is otherwise prohibited during the day. Even Avenue Bourguiba, the central avenue of downtown Tunis, is practically empty. This has been a tough adjustment for me because I am so used to and comfortable with cafe culture here. Also, my friends who fast are much less available during the day - cafes function as the big social outlet, so we don't have as many options open to us, and forget having lunch. I've gotten a "haram aleek" from someone when they saw me buying bread for lunch (basically "shame on you/that's forbidden").

I'm glad that I'm having this experience, because I do admire my friends who are keeping the discipline of fasting and working on being better Muslims. My main gripes with it so far are that I feel rather isolated, have no desire to fast myself - even as a cultural experience, and feel that my social options are limited.

The positive side of Ramadan is that the nighttime is fantastic. Lots of places open up at night, and people play music and get together with friends until the early hours of the morning. People who don't have jobs might even just stay up all night and sleep during the day (which kind of defeats the purpose, in my opinion). There's a music festival in the Medina which I'm hoping to check out soon, and lots of other special events.

Ultimately, I think the whole new experience of Ramadan will wear off within a week or two, but I am glad that I'm living it right now - at the very least to have an idea about how many people decide to conduct their lives once every lunar year...